Emeraude Agar by Atelier Cologne

*****
Year: 2016

Notes: Calabrian bergamot, Chinese eucalyptus, Vietnamese black pepper, Siberian angelica, Egyptian geranium, Turkish rose, Malaysian agarwood, Indian guaiac wood, Mysore sandalwood

Comment: Emeraude Agar is part of the Collection Métal
While one is now sick and tired of oud fragrances, in general, Emeraude Agar is more of a vibrant woody-green take on this heavily exploited ingredient (natural or otherwise).

Opening with some citrus and a hefty serving of black pepper, the subtle verdant additions of both the angelica and eucalyptus prepares the wearer for the emerging geranium. Overall, the green influence in the composition isn't too striking but more suggestive. Seguing into the geranium, the predictable pairing of rose and oud soon emerges. However, it's at this point that the green accents fade further into the background, as the proceedings becomes woodier and slightly sweeter.

The oud itself isn't that easy to isolate from the other woody accords, but one is able to discern something that verges closer to cedar than oud. Unfortunately, the creamy (and slightly dark) woody drydown is too generic to do any real justice to what went on before.

Compared to other releases from this collection, it's certainly one of the better creations. But, just like Jasmin Angélique, one would have preferred a more intense verdancy and better tenacity. With conservative projection, Emeraude Agar is just another passable Atelier Cologne fragrance that one can easily take or leave.


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